When I first got more interested in finishing and restoration, I read as much as I could. I frequently found a "rejuevenator" recipe, most often in British books and most often in pre-1970 books. The recipe generally included more or less equal parts of linseed oil, vinegar, and turpentine. Occasionally other exotic ingredients, such as "butter of antimony"(whatever that is) or wax, were in mix. Fortunately, before actually using, I found it it's a terrible idea.http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/info5.html
"Drying oils, such as linseed, tung, or walnut oil, are a different matter altogether. These materials solidify, or "dry" through a process of chemical reaction with the air called oxidation. The drying process polymerizes the oil, making it increasingly intractable with time and more difficult to remove with cleaners or solvents. This is fine if oil is employed as the finish, but not good if it is used as a polish. By itself, having a polish which is difficult to remove would be irritating but not insurmountable. Unforunately, this is not the whole story. As drying oils age, they tend to become yellow or brown. Also, drying oils are chromogenic (they become colored) in the presence of acids. In this instance the oil adopts the dark, muddy brown/black opaque appearance so prevalent in antique furniture. Traditionally, cleaning/polishing concoctions were comprised of linseed oil, turpentine, beeswax, and vinegar (acetic acid). This cleaning/polishing method, used widely even in the museum field until recently, was and is a disaster waiting to happen. The results of this approach are readily apparent to even the casual observer; a thick incrustation of chocolate colored goo which is neither hard enough to be durable nor soft enough to wipe off easily
. Thus, due to the polymerization of the oil as it dries and the reaction of the oil with acetic acid, the furniture is left with an unsightly coating which is very difficult to remove without damaging the surface of the object. "
Another polish that I avoid is Pledge (r). Pledge contains silicone oil. I say Pledge is like Herpes. Once you've got it, you will never get rid of it. Even stripping will not remove the traces of it. Problem is, silicone will cause most finishes to "fish-eye." If I encounter Pledge in a refinishing project, I kill it with spraying on a couple of light coats of shellac as the first two coats of finish. This effectively seals it in and forms a barrier between it and your finish of choice.